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Chinese elements in luxury brands for the Year of the Rooster

The official start of the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac begins on January 28th, and the fashion industry has been paying homage in a big way.

2017年1月28日,中国将正式迎来农历鸡年的新年。而时尚界已经开始大规模向鸡年致意。

Given it's the most lucrative time of year for designer brands to target Chinese consumers – one of the most significant forces in global luxury consumption – a surge in zodiac-themed items can be seen everywhere but, they're facing immense criticism.

这是一年中时尚大牌瞄准中国消费者的最赚钱的时机,因此新出现的生肖主题商品随处可见,但它们也面临诸多批评之声。

Cashing in on the demand for holiday gifts, these brands are thrusting cultural references upon wealthy Chinese shoppers. However, many of the country's millennials consider them outdated.

这些品牌投资于节日礼物的市场需求,对富裕的中国购物者强力推出各种文化产品。然而中国很多千禧一代认为这些产品很过时。

Instead of overused elements like red, yellow, phoenix's and the seasonal rooster; this new market are seeking more authentic and modern representations of Chinese culture.

这一新市场正追求对中国文化更真实、更现代的表达,而不是过度使用红色、黄色、凤凰图案、以及应季的公鸡图案。

Take Victoria Secret's eponymous fashion show for instance which might we add, included a total of four Chinese models for the first time ever in its squad of heavenly Angels.

以维密时装秀为例,最新一次的维密时装秀首次请到四位中国模特担任维密天使。

The lingerie brand decided to send dragon-decorated supermodels down the runway – think Adirana Lima's yellow stiletto boots or Kendall Jenner carrying blue phoenix wings on her back – and it quickly became the subject of online criticism.

这家内衣品牌决定把身穿龙形图案服装的模特派上T台,龙形图案出现在阿德瑞娜•利玛的黄色细高跟靴子上,肯达尔•詹娜则背上了蓝色的凤凰翅膀。这很快招致网络上的批评。

"Even the world's most beautiful bodies are not going to save these rustic and passe Chinese-themed outfits," wrote a Chinese web user on Sina Weibo, the country's equivalent of Twitter.

一位中国网友在新浪微博上写道:"即使是最美丽的模特也无法拯救这些土气过时的中国风服装"。

From Dior's rooster bracelet to Calvin Klein's red and gold unmentionables, luxury retailers' New Year-themed products are leaving Chinese consumers disgruntled.

从迪奥的公鸡手链到CK的金红色内衣,奢侈品销售商的新年主题产品令中国消费者不满。

Talking of MCM's rooster-embroidered bag, one person commented, "red, gold, and zodiac signs are symbols of Chinese New Year, but why do they believe we want to carry a bag with a zodiac animal all year round?"

在谈到MCM的公鸡绣花手袋时,有人这样评论说:"红色、金色和生肖图案是中国新年的象征,但他们为什么觉得我们想一年都拎着一个带有生肖图案的包包"?

Other offerings include cosmetics giant Estee Lauder which has designed a golden rooster on its limited edition powder compact, while Dolce & Gabbana is offering up a five sequined Rooster bomber jacket for a mere £1450.

化妆品巨头雅诗兰黛推出限量版粉饼,盒子上设计了一个金色公鸡的图案。杜嘉班纳推出一款短夹克,上面有五只有金属片装饰的公鸡,售价仅为1450英镑。

Sure, the Chinese market is becoming increasingly more sophisticated but, the ability for these brands to seamlessly and elegantly integrate authentic Chinese elements into their designs is another factor to consider.

当然,中国市场正变得越来越复杂,但这些大牌完美优雅地将真正的中国元素融入设计的能力是另外一个要考虑的因素。

For some, it just doesn't add up and consumers are refusing to invest in products that aren't consistent with the brands aesthetic. One prime example is Longchamp's handbag which features a red and gold embroidered rooster. It's off brand and out of taste.

对一些人来说,这并不会加分,消费者拒绝购买与品牌审美风格不同的产品。一个著名的例子是龙骧的手袋,上面有只金红色的绣花公鸡。这和品牌风格相去甚远,非常没品。

The style of young Chinese fashionistas has evidently evolved and, while luxury retailers will continue to cash in on this special occasion, they can't ignore the social media backlash that many of these products have faced.

年轻的中国时尚达人们的风格显然在不断变化。尽管奢侈品经销商将继续借机发财,他们仍不能忽视很多商品面对的社交媒体抨击。

Source: Independent

2017-01-17

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