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Travel in Shanghai within 36 hours – Part 2

SATURDAY

周六

10 a.m.

5. Powerful Art

上午10:00

震撼的艺术


36小时玩转上海 上海当代艺术馆.jpg


Shanghai could never be criticized for lack of ambition. Not content with being merely a financial hub, the city has been on a museum building spree in recent years to establish itself as a global arts center, too. One of the more promising institutions is the Power Station of Art, which opened last October in a late 19th-century power plant that was renovated for the 2010 Expo. With its industrial feel and focus on modern art, the museum feels similar to the Tate Modern, and it’s already hosted several major exhibitions, including the Shanghai Biennale and the largest collection of Andy Warhol’s art in Asia (though the Mao Zedong portraits were left out for obvious reasons). After checking out the art, take in the view of the barges chugging lazily up the Huangpu River from the expansive fifth-floor deck.

上海永远不会被批判缺乏抱负。这座城市不满足只当一个金融中心,近几年一直在大举修建博物馆,要将自己打造成一个全球艺术中心。其中颇有发展前景的机构之一便是上海当代艺术博物馆。这家博物馆于去年10月开放,在一个为2010年世博会翻新的19世纪末电厂的基础上建成。这座颇具工业特色的博物馆将重点放在当代艺术上,感觉有些像泰特现代美术馆,而且它已经办过几个大型展览,包括上海双年展以及亚洲最大的安迪·沃霍尔作品回顾展(尽管由于显而易见的原因,那幅毛泽东的画像没能参展)。参观完艺术作品后,可以到空间开阔的五楼咖啡厅,看驳船在黄浦江上轰隆隆地缓慢前行。


Noon

6. Healthful Eats

中午

6. 健康饮食


36小时玩转上海 建国328.jpg


In response to China’s mounting food safety concerns, many local restaurants are now taking a healthier approach to cooking, such as Jian Guo 328, which prides itself on using only high-quality cooking oil, filtered water and no MSG. (The Taiwanese owner also bans smoking.) Menu standouts are all Shanghainese favorites: cong you ban mian (noodles in scallion oil; 18 renminbi), xie fen dou fu (custard-like tofu with flakes of crab and crab roe; 32 renminbi) and shi zi tou mian (a giant pork meatball in noodle soup; 28 renminbi). Not only is the food deliciously authentic, it’s much lighter than other local joints.

为了回应中国日益加剧的食品安全担忧,本地许多餐馆现在对烹饪有了更健康的态度,建国328小馆就是一个例子。这家餐馆引以为豪的是,只使用高质量的烹饪用油和纯净水,而且不使用味精。(来自台湾的老板还禁止在店里抽烟。)菜单上出彩的菜品都是上海特色:葱油拌面(18元)、蟹粉豆腐(32元)、狮子头面(28元)。这里的食物美味又正宗,也比本地的其他食肆更清淡。


2 p.m.

7. Designer District

下午2:00

7. 设计区


36小时玩转上海 法租界.jpg


With its charming villas and bohemian vibe, the former French Concession has become a magnet for artists and designers opening boutiques. Dong Liang Studio is the place to find rising fashion talents, such as Christopher Bu, the stylist for the Chinese “it” girl Fan Bingbing. At Brut Cake, Nicole Teng makes tote bags and upholstered furniture using old Chinese fabrics. Down the street, stop at the Japanese designer Mayumi Sato’s shop for women’s clothes of brightly patterned organic cottons, silks and vintage kimono fabrics; and Piling Palang for Deng Bingbing’s exquisite ceramic and cloisonné pieces.

这里有迷人的别墅和波西米亚的氛围,过去的法租界现在已经成了艺术家和设计师开设精品店的热门场所。在栋梁工作室,你能找到正在冉冉升起的时尚人才,比如中国当红女星范冰冰的造型师卜柯文。Brut Cake的邓乃瑄使用中国老式的织物制作手提袋和软垫家具。继续沿着街走,就会与日本设计师Mayumi Sato的女装店铺相遇。这里的衣物图案明亮,采用有机的棉、丝面料,以及复古的和服面料。在Piling Palang,能触摸到邓兵兵精致的陶瓷作品和景泰蓝物件。


4 p.m.

8. Dancing With the Retirees

下午4:00

8. 与退休老人共舞


36小时玩转上海 复兴公园.jpg


When you’re all shopped out, a respite awaits on the other side of the former French Concession in Fuxing Park, where elderly Shanghainese come for gossip — and a bit of a show. Old men in Mao jackets chain-smoke and play cards on park benches, drawing hordes of onlookers, while small troupes of musicians gather in hidden corners to sing Peking opera classics. The main attraction, however, happens beneath the towering plane trees in the center of the park where well-dressed couples show off their best ballroom dancing moves to syrupy Chinese love songs.

购物过后,在前法租界对面的复兴公园可以休憩片刻。上海的老人们常常来这里闲谈,有时也展示一下自己。身穿中山装的老先生们坐在公园的长凳上,一边打牌,一边一根接一根地抽烟,吸引了很多人前来围观。小群小群的票友躲藏在角落里唱京剧。而最吸引人的景象,就发生在公园中间高高的法国梧桐树下。在那里,一对对衣着考究的舞者,和着婉转的中文情歌翩翩起舞。


7:30 p.m.

9. Cinematic Cuisine

下午7:30

9. 电影一般的餐厅


36小时玩转上海 查餐厅.jpg


If the 1960s Hong Kong diner décor at Cha’s Restaurant looks like a movie set, that’s because it is. Well, sort of. Charlie Hau, a Hong Kong movie producer, opened a traditional cha chaan teng (tea restaurant) in Shanghai after struggling to find authentic Cantonese food while shooting the Ang Lee film “Lust, Caution.” Mr. Hau’s cinematic expertise ensured that every detail was perfect, from the leather-backed booths and 1960s china patterns to a menu that includes Hong Kong staples like poached chicken in soy sauce (60 renminbi for a half-bird) and pineapple buns (8 renminbi). Cha’s has become a hit with the Hong Kong diaspora, as well as trendy young Shanghainese with dyed hair and high-tops, so be prepared for a wait.

如果说茶餐厅里,上世纪60年代风情的香港餐厅装潢让它看起来像是一处拍电影的片场,那是因为它的确是,或者说基本上是。香港的电影制片人侯杰辉在参与拍摄李安的电影《色,戒》时,在寻找正宗的粤式菜品方面历尽艰辛,于是干脆自己在上海自己开了一家传统的茶餐厅。侯杰辉在电影业的专业知识,确保从皮质靠背的座椅,到上世纪60年代的瓷器花纹等每个细节都完美无瑕。菜单上囊括了主打的港式菜品,如玫瑰豉油鸡(60元半只)和菠萝包(8元)。茶餐厅不仅在旅居上海的香港人中很受欢迎,在染着各色头发脚穿高帮帆布鞋的时髦上海青年中也很受欢迎,所以要做好等位的心理准备。


10:30 p.m.

10. Spanish Speakeasy

晚上10:30

10. 西班牙小酒馆


36小时玩转上海 El Cóctel.jpg


Shanghai’s cocktail scene has become highly competitive in recent years, with a constantly revolving door of new speakeasy-style bars and enterprising mixologists. One bar, however, has separated itself from the pack: the Barcelona native Willy Trullás Moreno’s El Cóctel, which combines Spanish-style décor (leather ottomans, exposed brick walls, a floral ceiling design by a Barcelona artist) with one of the most colorful drinks menus in town (the Late Night Tale, 84 renminbi, for instance, is made with Tennessee whisky, Canadian maple syrup, coffee — and a side of insomnia). For a night spot with more bounce, pull up a stool outside one of the shoe-box bars on Yongkang Road — a former vegetable market that has become a raucous bar street popular with the fixed-gear-bike-riding expat community.

上海主打鸡尾酒的酒吧近几年来竞争十分激烈,一家又一家地下风格的酒吧开了又关,调酒师也总是换来换去。然而有一家酒吧却卓尔不群,那就是巴塞罗那人威利·特鲁拉斯·莫雷诺开的El Cóctel。这家店既有西班牙式的装潢(皮革脚凳、裸露的砖墙,以及一位巴塞罗那艺术家设计的花纹天花板),又有沪上最异彩纷呈的酒单,例如84元一杯的“深夜故事”,内含田纳西威士忌、加拿大枫糖、咖啡,还要再加上一点点失眠。如果你在夜晚想找一个更热闹的所在,不如到永康路去,在鞋盒一样狭窄的酒吧外,坐在高凳上啜饮。这里曾经是一个菜市场,但现在已经成了喧闹的酒吧街,派驻上海的外国人中总喜欢骑着死飞在这里穿梭。


SUNDAY

周日

10:30 a.m.

11. Sidewalk Snacks

上午10:30

11. 路边小吃


36小时玩转上海 上海小笼包.jpg


Breakfast in China is best enjoyed on the street, still piping hot from the wok or steamer. The only difficulty is deciphering a Chinese menu. UnTour Shanghai, a street culinary tour company, simplifies the process by doing the ordering for you. The Dumplings Delights tour (400 renminbi) spans the breadth of China, from cabbage-filled jiao zi eaten in wintry northeastern China to delicate shrimp almond pastries from southern China and, of course, Shanghai’s famous xiao long bao — all in a two-square-block area. Fortunately, there’s enough walking between stops to justify such gluttony, though in anything-goes Shanghai, you’ll need little excuse.

中国的早餐最好在刚出锅或出笼时,热腾腾地在街头享用。唯一的困难是搞不明白中文的菜单写的是什么。带你品尝街头美食的旅游公司UnTour上海游,可以帮你点单,简化这个过程。“包馅小吃”之旅(400元)可以在方圆两个路口的范围内,让你尝到中国各地的美味小点,既有来自寒风凛冽的中国东北的白菜馅饺子,又有南方精致的杏仁虾球,当然更少不了大名鼎鼎的上海小笼包。幸运的是,每一餐之间行走的距离足够远,完全有理由大快朵颐。不过在无所不有的上海,你根本不需要什么借口。

2016-06-23

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