Travel in Shanghai within 36 hours – Part 1

What takes most cities eons to build, Shanghai can do overnight. Consider this: Just a decade ago, the city had four metro lines; now there are a dozen. The Jin Mao Tower was the tallest building in the neon-streaked financial center of Pudong; it has since been surpassed by the Shanghai World Financial Center and the nearly completed Shanghai Tower, which will be the second-tallest building in the world (after Dubai’s Burj Khalifa) when it’s finished next year. Still, what fascinates about this city is how little seems to have changed in the maze of lanes that have (thus far) eluded the bulldozer in the Old City or the former foreign concessions. Here, residents haggle over freshly caught fish in tiny markets or doze in lawn chairs on summer afternoons, ignoring the pounding jackhammers. Shanghai is remaking itself to become a “City of the Future,” but what’s so alluring is how much old-world character remains.

大多数城市经年累月才能建成的东西，上海一夜间就能完成。想想这个：就在十年前，这座城市还只有四条地铁线，现在它已经有了12条。在霓虹灯闪烁的金融中心浦东，金茂大厦曾是最高的大楼；而之后，它就被上海环球金融中心和几近完工的上海中心大厦超越。明年完工后，上海中心大厦将成为世界第二高楼（仅次于迪拜的哈里发塔）。不过，这个城市最吸引人之处还在于，在老城区和过去的外国租界，那些错综复杂的小弄堂（到目前为止）躲开了推土机的烦扰，一切似乎都没有变过。在这里，你能看到本地人在狭小的市场里为新鲜的鱼讨价还价，或者夏日午后在屋外的躺椅上打盹，对手提钻机发出的响声充耳不闻。上海正在重新将自己打造成“未来之城”，但迷人的是，这里旧世界的风貌犹存。

FRIDAY

周五

3 p.m.

1. Model City

下午3:00

1. 城市模型

Start with an overview. Spanning the third floor of the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center (admission 30 renminbi, or about $5 at 6 renminbi to the dollar) is a model of the city as it’s expected to look in 2020, with thousands of miniature buildings, elevated highways lined with yellow lights and streetlamps the size of toothpicks. The kitsch tour of Shanghai continues in the adjacent 360-degree projection theater, where visitors are taken on a virtual aerial tour of the city, swooping over bridges and high-speed trains as fireworks explode in the smog-free sky. It’s a paean to mass development, 21st-century Chinese style — big, brash and over the top.

先看看城市概貌吧。在上海城市规划展示馆三层，是覆盖整个楼层的上海2020年面貌的城市模型（门票30元人民币，约合5美元），里面有成千上万座微型建筑、两侧是有着黄色路灯的高架路，以及如牙签大小的街灯。你可以在旁边的360度投影影院里，继续领略上海当下的景象，在那里观众会被带入一场虚拟旅行，从空中俯瞰上海。在掠过大桥和高铁时，烟花在没有雾霾的晴朗天空中绽放。这是对大规模发展，以及宏大、匆促和夸张的21世纪中国风格的赞歌。

4:30 p.m.

2. Glamour Shots

下午4:30

2. 魅力剪影

While swaths of old Shanghai have fallen, many historic buildings have been spared and refurbished in recent years, particularly around the Bund. One noteworthy project is the Rockbund Art Museum (15 renminbi), housed in an extensively renovated 1930s Art Deco building. The museum exhibits works by well-known contemporary artists like Cai Guo-Qiang and Zhang Huan and isn’t afraid to take risks: One show featured live monkeys in a cage with a robotic Confucius until the government ordered the primates removed. Around the corner is Yuanmingyuan Road, a block of equally stunning turn-of-the century buildings that doubles as a catwalk for brides in red dresses preening for wedding photographers.

虽然近些年来，大片旧上海建筑已被推倒，但很多历史建筑得以保存并被翻修，尤其是外滩附近的建筑。值得一提的一项工程就是上海外滩美术馆（门票15元），它位于一个上世纪30年代装饰派艺术风格的大楼里，这座大楼经过了大面积整修。美术馆并不害怕冒险，这里正展览着蔡国强和张洹等著名当代艺术家的作品：其中的一个展品是一个机器人的孔子和一群活的猴子一起关在笼子里，直到政府要求把这些猴子弄走。街角处便是圆明园路，这个街区留存着的上世纪的建筑也同样令人赞叹。这里还是新娘的T型台，她们穿着红色的礼服，努力在婚纱照摄影师的镜头前显得漂亮迷人。

7 p.m.

3. Party Like It’s 1929

晚上7:00

3. 来派对吧，就像1929年一样

Shanghai’s historic Bund hasn’t looked this good since Noël Coward and Charlie Chaplin were party guests in the city’s glamorous prewar years. As part of the city’s sprucing-up for the 2010 World Expo, the concession-era strip underwent a three-year restoration that moved most of the traffic underground and widened the riverside promenade to create a pleasant place to stroll in the evenings (minus the crowds). Several iconic properties have also recently returned to their former splendor. Splurge on a 500-renminbi glass of Yao Ming’s cabernet sauvignon — or a more reasonably priced bottle from the extensive wine list — on the rooftop bar at the House of Roosevelt, a neo-Classical building restored by a company run by Theodore Roosevelt’s great-grandson Tweed. Or drop by the Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria, a 110-foot-long recreation of the original Long Bar at the former Shanghai Club, an exclusive British gentleman’s club that became a KFC in the 1990s.

在上海战前的光彩岁月，诺埃尔·科沃德和查理·卓别林曾是这里的派对宾客，而自那以来，上海有着历史意义的外滩，从没像现在这样美丽。作为迎接2010年世博会的城市面貌改造的一部分，这一从租界时代保留下来的狭长地带经过了三年重修，大部分交通被转移至地下，江边的人行道经过拓宽，为人们在晚间散步时创造了一个更愉悦的环境（如果不考虑拥挤人群的话）。一些标志性建筑最近也重现往昔风采。在罗斯福公馆的屋顶酒吧，你可以花500元，奢侈地喝上一杯姚明推出的赤霞珠葡萄酒，或者是从丰富的酒单中选一瓶价格更为适中的酒。罗斯福公馆是一座新古典风格建筑，由西奥多·罗斯福的曾孙德尔·罗斯福经营的公司重新修复。你还可以到华尔道夫酒店的廊吧坐一坐，这里的吧台长约34米，再现了过去上海总会的廊吧。上海总会是过去驻沪英国侨民的专属俱乐部，后来在上世纪90年代改造成一家肯德基餐厅。

8 p.m.

4. A Movable Feast

晚上8:00

4. 流动的盛宴

Jason Atherton is building quite a culinary empire in Asia. The Michelin-starred chef behind Pollen Street Social in London has opened six restaurants in Shanghai, Hong Kong and Singapore since 2010, including the new Commune Social, a playful tapas restaurant where eating a meal feels more like barhopping. First, small plates of miso-grilled mackerel with wasabi avocado and cucumber chutney (88 renminbi) and oysters with Vietnamese dressing (48 renminbi each) are served at the informal tapas bar overlooking the busy kitchen. Next, diners head to the narrow, white-tiled dessert bar to watch the South African pastry chef Kim Lyle make inventive desserts like goat’s cheese, yogurt sorbet and honeycomb frozen with liquid nitrogen (55 renminbi). The last stop is the hidden cocktail bar upstairs for a PBJ (cognac, cherry brandy, peanut butter, strawberry jelly; 88 renminbi), a nightcap that doubles as a midnight snack.

贾森·阿瑟顿正在亚洲建造一个餐饮帝国。自2010年起，这位米其林星级大厨、伦敦宝仑街社交场餐厅的老板已在上海、香港和新加坡开了六家餐厅，其中包括新开的食社，这是一家有趣的西班牙小吃餐厅，在那里吃饭更像是泡吧。首先，在有着开放式厨房的随意小吃区品尝小碟的“味噌烤鲭鱼，芥末牛油果，黄瓜酸辣酱”（88元）、牡蛎佐越式甜辣酱（每只48元）。接下来再转移到镶着白色瓷砖的狭窄的甜品区，在那里欣赏饼房总厨金莱尔制作别出心裁的甜点，比如“羊酪，酸奶冰糕，（液氮冷冻）的蜂巢糖”（55元）。最后再到二楼有些隐蔽的鸡尾酒吧，享用一杯花生兄爱果酱妹（干邑、樱桃白兰地、花生酱和草莓果酱，88元），睡前喝这一杯也可以算作午夜的小零食。